Thursday 7 December 2006

Isla Del Sol - the most chilled place on earth



Isla Del Sol? Where exactly did they get that name from?? I nearly froze to death! It's an amazingly beautiful island on Lake Titicaca. Mostly desert hills and mountains, fringed with green around the coast which looks out onto the lake. The only lake I have ever seen which has a never ending horizon. Just next door is Isla della Luna – a tiny little rock of an island that you can take camping trips to. The desert land is full of multi coloured minerals that glisten in the sun. The sunsets here are amazing. The land shines all different colours and the sky turns from pink to red to purple and then bright blue. When the light fades on Isla Del Sol, Isla Della Luna is bathed in soft, golden pink light. The whole island is overlooked by a cordelliera of snowcapped mountains. Its sun burns hot during the day and everywhere you go is a major climb so I find myself peeling down to strappy tops all the time. But the moment the sun sets the wind kicks in and suddenly it’s not just cold, it’s bloody freezing. You’d need to be Canadian or a bloody Eskimo to go out in it. I’ve been walking around at night looking like the Mitchelin Man because I have so many layers on.

Since we knew we’d be staying here over for Tim’s birthday we decided to go for one of the places in the Lonely Planet ‘Splash out’ boxes. We’re paying about $15. It’s really lovely. A fabulous little house at the top of the Inca steps. It’s got a lovely terrace where you can see the sun setting over Isla della Luna in the west and turning the mountains pinky gold to the east all at the same time. The owner is away on holiday and it is being looked after by a gorgeous Bolivian lady and her lovely kids. She doesn’t speak any English but we are doing just fine. My Spitalian is coming along nicely. We decided on this place because it was advertised as having hot water and we wanted to treat ourselves for Tim’s birthday. No such luck I’m afraid. I tell you something though – I have the pertest boobs I’ve had in ages!

It's got to be one of the most chilled places on Earth. There is nothing here, bar the odd road trader, a cafe on the main port and a couple of small privately run guest houses nestled at the top of the mountain. There are lots of donkeys and llamas wondering around and everyone – and by that I mean every single last local, is in traditional dress. There are a few houses scattered around the mountain top and along the Inca steps. The locals are obviously used to seeing tourists, but we’ve hardly had any hassle at all. People just smile hello and get on with their thing. Many of them have donkeys loaded with huge bags that seem to be continuously being brought down to the beach. I have no idea what’s in the bags – there doesn’t seem to be anything to collect from up here, apart from fantastic photos.

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